As described by Lucie Armstrong in The Ball-Room Guide (London and New York, c1880):
The Calico Ball is a fancy ball at which the dresses are made of calico. Sateen, chintz and velveteen are allowable, and any other material which is made of cotton. The invitation, of course, states the nature of the ball.
It really seems to have been primarily about the fabric rather than any costume theme, though obviously some costumes will work better when made out of cottons than others. She goes on to make some suggestions. For ladies: a dairymaid, a charity girl from St. Giles', or a Dresden shepherdess. For gentlemen: a Maltese peasant, Albanian costume, Saxon dress, or an Italian peasant.
The anonymous author of Masquerades, tableaux and drills (New York, 1906) added more details:
Gloves are mitts are seldom used at calico balls, although they are permissible. Regarding materials for calico-ball costumes -- there are, besides calico, many dainty fabrics, cotton crêpes and the like, which may be made up most artistically; however, there is most fun when all the costumes are made of the old-fashioned calico. Ribbon, net, and tinsel trimmings are allowable. Among the costumes most generally chosen for calico balls are peasant and shepherdess dresses, and those for fish girls, flower girls and charity girls; poudré and watteau costumes and those for Cinderella, Mother Hubbard, waiting-maids, Bo-Peep, Dolly Varden or almost any of those suggested and pictured throughout these pages. The men at such balls wear simply made character costumes or dress suits made of "calico"; or sometimes ordinary dress suits faced with bright cambric or flowered fabrics.
So how did they do in Victoria, British Columbia, on the evening of Wednesday, December 9th, 1885? As reported by the Daily Colonist on the morning of the 10th, at the calico party held by Mr. and Mrs. Robert Dunsmuir,
Most of the costumes were unique and handsome; all were tasteful and appropriate. Although in some instances more costly fabrics were employed, calico and satteen frocks predominaed; and the colors of these were so pretty and the dresses so delicately fashioned that few who were not in the secret would have imagined that they were not composed of the most expensive materials. A few of the older members of the company did not observe the mandatory injunction of calico; and the worthy host and hostess, whose hospitality is proverbial, appeared in evening dress.
The article goes on to note that there was dancing both before and after the midnight supper, continuing until an "early hour" and that the party was "unanimously voted by the participants to be the pleasantest of the kind that has ever taken place in this province."
An enormous list of costumes and wearers was printed. As noted, the rules were not strictly enforced, starting with the host and hostess. There were also gentlemen in naval uniform and others not in costume at all. Among those listed, some were probably on-theme for a calico ball: Florence Nightingale, Rachel the Gleaner, Fishwife, Alsatian peasant girl, charity school-girl, foresters, Neapolitan fisherman, and the two younger daughters of the house as Italian peasant girls.
Others seem likely to have used those "more costly" fabrics, though they might also have been cleverly made with less expensive ones: "a lady of the court of Louis XIII, white with gold, pearl and emerald and ruby ornaments," or the eldest Dunsmuir daughter as Winter "in white and swansdown, frosted moss and crown".
As is typical of a nineteenth-century fancy dress ball of any sort,
"Mythology and ancient history were represented and nearly every personage or character of note from the middle ages down to the present time -- the dude not omitted -- was there."
I have no idea who "the" dude was, though there are some interesting possibilities here. But many historical costumes appeared ("Lady of the Court of King James", "Mary Queen of Scots", "Charles I"), as did costumes from popular operas or plays ("Marguerite" from Faust, "Portia", presumably from The Merchant of Venice, "Yum Yum" from The Mikado), and perennial favorites like "Folly", "Queen of Hearts", and at least three versions of "Night". I suspect some people had just one fancy dress costume which they pulled out for every fancy dress ball, regardless of theme.
Still typical but more creative were efforts like "Five O'Clock Tea", "Lawn Tennis", and "Backgammon". One can get an idea of how these zanier costumes worked from the increasingly elaborate versions given in Arden Holt's Fancy Dresses Described, 5th Edition. (London: 1887):
TENNIS, LAWN. Short plain skirt of grass-green satin, slightly gathered at the back, and trimmed at the edge with grass fringe, headed by white satin bands; bats and balls introduced as trimming.
LAWN TENNIS AND BADMINTON. Sometimes for these only an ordinary lawn tennis dress and pouch are worn, with a bat attached to the side.
A better representation is a green satin skirt, a bat fastening a silver net, forming paniers, pouches and balls on the shoulders, which drape the skirt; scarf across bodice, with lawn tennis in silver letters; black bodice with white circles to resemble balls; high pointed black hat with a bat as an aigrette; brown stockings and shoes.
Or, a short plain skirt of grass green satin, gathered at back, trimmed round the edge with two rows of grass fringe, headed by a flat band of white satin an inch and a half in width, to represent the boundary of court; six lines of the same round the skirt at intervals; a tennis net draped from waist, edged with scarlet and white worsted balls; miniature tennis bats hold up the drapery; bodice of green velvet, long sleeves to wrist, all bordered with gold braid and scarlet and white balls; epaulettes of scarlet and white satin ribbon; red and white satin peaked cap, with daisies and leaves beneath the flap; Suède gloves, and black shoes; scarlet stockings; ornaments, gold tennis bats; fan like a bat, in red.
And, once again, there was cross-dressing of various sorts. It's fascinating that it seems to be the men, not the women, who do it:
Mr. Herbert Jones, as "Cherry Ripe," a young lady
Mr. W. Ward as a "Baby," with Mr. A. Brealey as "Dry Nurse"
Baby costumes, often with cross-dressed nurses, were popular; I've seen photos. "Cherry Ripe" was probably a version of John Everett Millais' 1879 painting.
Two women dressed as "Law Student", which may or may not have involved cross-dressing but is interesting regardless, considering that at that time women could not be lawyers in Canada. Was this early feminist commentary?
Also interesting, but one I would prefer not to see at any event nowadays: "Christy Minstrel in White" was probably a blackface costume.
And, finally, my absolute favorite costume, since I have no idea what it might have looked like:
L. Crease -- "Early Hebron Potato"
There's no note about whether he wore gloves.
Edited December 14, 2018 to add all of the following:
A full transcription of the article, with the complete list of costumes, is below.
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“FAIRVIEW.”
Mr. and Mrs. Robt. Dunsmuir entertained a large number of ladies and gentlemen at the family residence last evening, invitations having been sent out several days’ previously for a fancy dress (calico) party. The spacious parlors were thronged with gaily, and in some instances grotesquely attired guests. Most of the costumes were unique and handsome; all were tasteful and appropriate. Although in some instances more costly fabrics were employed, calico and satteen frocks predominated; and the color of these were so pretty and the dresses so delicately fashioned that few who were not in the secret would have imagined that they were not composed of the most expensive materials. A few of the older members of the company did not observe the mandatory injunction of calico; and the worthy host and hostess, whose hospitality is proverbial, appeared in evening dress. A glance at the hall while the enjoyment was at its height revealed extraordinary and opposite characters whirling on the floor of the tastefully decorated ballroom. Mythology and ancient history were represented and nearly every personage or character of note from the middle ages down to the present time — the dude not omitted — was there. Supper was served at midnight, after which dancing was resumed and continued till an early hour this morning. The party was unanimously voted by the participants to be the pleasantest of the kind that has ever taken place in this province. Among the most noteworthy personations were the following:
Miss Dunsmuir as “Winter” (in white and swansdown, frosted moss and crown; Mrs. Bryden, of Nanaimo, as “Night,” black and silver stars crowned with crescent; Mrs. Croft, of Chemainus, as a lady of the court of Louis XIII, white with gold, pearl and emerald and ruby ornaments; Mrs. D. R. Harris, “Queen of Sunflowers,” with emblematic ornaments.
Mrs. W. J. Mcadonald [sic] — “Lady of the Court of King James.”
Mr. Herbert Jones, as “Cherry Ripe,” a young lady.
Mrs. Wm. Smithe as “Night,” black grenadine with stars and crescents.
Mr. D. R. Harris, “Stalwart Sailor-boy.”
Mr. E. G. Prior, “Pirate King.”
Mr. W. Ward, as a “Baby,” with Mr A. Bresley as “Dry Nurse.”
Messrs. Dumbleton and P. Æ. Irving as French cooks.
W. Bresley as “Bluebeard.”
Mr. Simms, as “Rouge-et-Noir.”
Mrs. Bullen, as “Marie Antoinette.”
Miss Bushby, as “Union Jack.”
Miss Macdonald as “Galatea,” Greek maid.
Miss Edith Macdonald, as “Yum Yum” the Japanese girl in the “Mikado.”
G. Bovill and Keith Wilson as “Foresters.”
Gavin Burns, “Charles I.”
Mrs. Gray, as “Florence Nightingale.”
Miss Gray — “Rachel, the Gleaner.”
Mr. Snowdon — “Turkish Pasha.”
B. Drake — “Little Boy Blue.”
Mr. Tytler — “Neapolitan Fisherman.”
Mrs. E. G. Prior — “Fishwife.”
Mrs. P. Æ Irving — “Charity School-Girl.”
Miss Jenns - “Law Student.”
Miss Sylvia Gray — “Little Red Riding Hood.”
Miss Ward — “Winter” (with miniature snowshoes and sledges as ornaments.)
Miss Higgins— A “Witch.”
Miss Helmcken — “Queen of Hearts.”
Miss McKay — A “Vivandiere.”
Miss J. Innes — “Night.”
L. Crease — “Early Hebron Potato.”
Mrs. R. E. Jackson — “Portia.”
W. Croft — “Gentleman of the last century.”
J. R. Anderson — “Gentleman of the Hawaiian court.”
W. Gravely - A “Corsair.”
Miss Langley — “Marguerite” (Faust).
Mrs. Gillespie — “Mary Queen of Scots.”
Mrs. C. A. Vernon — “Lady of last century.”
Mr. O’Reilly — “Yachtsman.”
W. McKay — “Lawn tennis.”
Mrs. Keith Wilson — “Lady of the Period”
A. W. Jones - “Auld Scotia” (clan Cameron).
T. R. Smith — “Superintendent London Police.”
Sir Anthony Musgrave — “Foxhunter.”
Miss Crease — “Backgammon.”
Mrs. J. R. Anderson — “Law Student.”
Miss Davie — “Aurora.”
Mrs. Rithet — “Lady of 16th century.”
Miss O’Reilly — “Miss Hardcastle” (School for Scandal).
Miss Bresley — “Queen Semiramis.”
Mrs. Turner — “Lady of English court.”
Mrs. W. C. Ward — “Court lady of last century.”
Miss L. Macdonald — “El Mahdi’s bride.”
Mrs. M. T. Johnson — “Lady of 17th century.”
Miss McTavish — “Alsatian peasant girl.”
Mr. H. E. Crossdaile — “Gentleman of the Old School.”
Mrs. Blaildock — “Five o’clock tea.”
Mrs. Harvey Combe - “Folly.”
Mr. Harvey Combe - “Jack Tar.”
Scott Gray — “Olde Englishe gentleman.”
John Gray — “Tom”; Pierrepont Gray as “Jerry.”
Miss Jessie Dunsmuir — “Italian peasant girl.”
Miss Maude Dunsmuir — “Italian peasant girl.”
R. E. Jackson — “Mephistopheles.”
Lieut. Gibbon — “Zouave.”
Dr. Trevan, R. N., “Knight of Malta.”
Mr. Fisher, R. N., “Christy Minstrel in White.”
Mrs. Croasdaile — “Gypsy.”
Miss Musgrave — “The Maid of Perth.”
Miss A. Musgrave — “Lady of the 16th Century.”
H. Prior - “Romeo.”
Mr. Reeves, R. N. — “Mariner.”
Mr. Thomas, R. N. — “French Cook.”
Miss P. Finlayson — “Nancy Lee.”
Miss S. Finlayson — “Peasant Girl.”
Miss Ella Innes “Egyptian Maiden.”
Miss Drake — “Great Grandmother.”
Sir Michael Culme Seymour, Capt. Rose, Capt. Hope and several other gentlemen from the navy were in full uniform. Sir M. B. Begbie, Mr. Justice Gray, Senator Macdonald, Hon. W. Smithe, Mayor Rithet, ex-Mayor Turner and a number of other gentlemen, not in costume, were also present.
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