On Saturday, September 9, 1865, The New York Times published an account of a fancy dress "hop" given by the ladies of Cozzens' Hotel in West Point, New York, home of the famous U. S. Military Academy.
Cozzens', established in 1849, was a prominent hotel near the Academy. The original building was destroyed by fire in the March of 1861 but quickly rebuilt. The image below is a late-nineteenth-century print by Max Egalu of the view of the Hudson River from the hotel; the original is in the collection of the Boston Public Library.
With its ready supply of eager cadets from the Academy, Cozzens' was a popular site for dances. In 1859, an article in Harper's Weekly explained that:
I don't tend to think of Ophelia as rustic, or even particularly wild, though I suppose that represents her madness.
One of the men came as a "Tyrolean", possibly something like the "Swiss Peasant or Tyrolese" from T. H. Lacy's Male Costume, Historical, National & Dramatic, in 200 Plates (1868), shown at left (click to enlarge).
Other costumes were typical ones - a shepherdess, a peasant girl, a Spanish Lady, a Harlequin, a Louis XIV, the specifically American Lady Washington and Liberty, etc.
One (only one!) young lady actually wore a classic domino, apparently so old-fashioned (or unfashionable) an outfit as to be worthy of special remark:
"Miss S_____, in Black Domino — the only one in the room."
A typical mid-century lady's domino outfit may be seen here.
A full transcription of the article, for those who cannot access The New York Times Archive, follows.
Herewith I hand an account of a fancy dress hop that was given to the ladies of this hotel, on Friday evening, Sept. 1.
Anything amateur, when good, has a charm peculiarly its own. The fierce law that so much music or to much fun, must be paid for by so many greenbacks, was on this occasion suspended, as the admittance to the ball-room or parlor was by invitation.
On the occasion of which I am about to write, the assemblage was a curious one of curious people, all sorts of men and women and here and there a child or two, like a daisy in a field.
Every one has witnessed, at some time of their life, that maddest of gay scenes, a fancy ball, and every one knows how exhilarating to the spirits is the consciousness that for once the conventionalities of society may be thrown aside, and new characters assumed with a new dress. This was exemplified to a certain extent on this occasion, for where could a quie tnon-dancing spectator have found more fun than in the festive scene in the parlor of Cozzens' Hotel.
"In diamonds, curls and rich brocades,
To shine the erst of battered jades,
And flutter in her pride."
The dancing began at 9 o'clock, and
"Bright gleamed the light in maiden's eyes,
While gentler than the snowflake's fall
Their feet kept time to melodies."
I will now attempt a description. The following are some of the characters that happened to come under my notice; there were doubtless many that have escaped my attention:
1. Miss C_____, as a Marquise. Her toilette unexceptionable, and was one of the finest in the room. She became the character well.
2. Miss N. H_____, as Lady WASHINGTON. Her youthful face belied her powdered tresses. She made the youngest looking old lady I ever saw.
3. Miss F. K_____, attracted much attention as a Bonne Française.
4. Miss B_____, as a Vivandiere, was full of mischief.
5. Miss L. H_____, as a Page, looked sweetly. All were charmed with her sweet innocence and perfect [???].
6. Miss Z_____, as a Peri, was dressed appropriately.
7. Miss J_____, as Ivy Clad, wore a jolly little hat, and white dress trimmed with Ivy leaves.
"The fond ivy ever doth incline,
Around ’loved objects to entwine.
8. Miss J. H_____ took the character of a Peasant Girl.
9. Mrs. A_____, as a Marquise, was magnificent, her powdered tresses became her well and produced a fine affect; her dress was very costly.
10. Mrs. S_____, as Bazique, looked charming; her dress was studded with cards. The design was good, and so was the effect. It was a curiosity in manufacture and combination.
11. Mrs. B_____, as Fanchon, was well and prettily dressed, and was admired for her sparkling style.
12. Miss B_____, as Liberty. Her dress was of red and white stripes, corsage of blue, studded with stars. She floated through the room an emblem of a national sentiment.
13. Miss R_____, as Ophelia, carried a basket of straws in her hand and a wreath on her head. Her flashing black eyes, magnificent dark hair reaching down below her waist, with an appropriate dress, all termed a picture of wild and rustic beauty.
14 Miss B_____, as a Polonaise. Her dress was tastefully arranged and becoming.
16. Miss S_____, in Black Domino — the only one in the room, Miss B_____, as a Roman Girl; Miss S_____, as a Marquise, Miss H_____, as a Shepherdess; Mrs. O_____, as a Spanish Lady. All lent additional attractions to the occasion.
7. Among the gentlemen I noticed the following: Mr. H_____, as the Devil; Mr. A_____, as Fra Diavolo; Mr. K_____, as Louis XIV.; Mr. B_____, as Figaro; Mr. C_____, as a Smuggler; Mr. A_____, as the Man in White; Mr. P_____, as a Friar; Mr. S_____, as a Tyrolean; Mr. V_____, as a Harlequin.
Joy illumined every brow, and pleasure ruled supreme until the gray hours, when all retired with aching beans and weary limbs.
The managers were Edward Harriman, E. T. Gerry, B. W. Pycrek[?], E. Corlies[?], Major Bruen[?], Major Allen.
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